The West Coast Story
“Drifters of the sun, where my true self was found, where my tears carved canyons through the beauty that surrounds. Whispers of the stars, where my true self was revealed, guided by the truth, a ripened fruit freshly peeled.”
I’ve spent most of my life drifting. From one place to the next, through passing thoughts, in dreams and on whatever board I can throw under my feet. In perpetual motion we glide through the easy times and climb mountains through the hard times, to gain strength and new perspectives. The human experience is a wild mixture of energy, emotions and decay, and it’s in floating with the current that we are able to fully accept and embrace the ride. One of the aspects of surfing I love most is the patient waiting game between sets. In those moments, I’m aware of both worlds, above and below me, as I delicately balance between the mysterious deep dark ocean reaches, and the magical shifting coastline that ignites my senses. It’s in these peaceful lulls, when the ocean pauses between breaths, that I fully witness my own journey, and the beautiful swells that brought me here.